Trip to Wyoming

Not too often do people have the chance to go on adventure of epic proportions. 2 years ago I had the idea to travel to Wyoming and experience Yellowstone National Park and The Grand Teton National Park. We have been there before but we were blind. We didn't have any of the experience or the where with all to gain the experience to see the parks and see all they had to offer. We did see elk and bison but I wanted more. I wanted grizzlies and moose and bald eagles-THE GOOD STUFF. so, I bought books, researched the internet and talked to people. Everybody said, "Moose?" "yeah they were just there on the side of the road." "they were everyplace." I must have missed those roads. Nothing worse then when there's something that you want to do so bad and have never done and people are just like, "yeah, no big deal. Done it lots of times." ARRGGGGG!!!

Our first night was in Rockford Illinois. Not much of a story there. Just 82 miles of 1 lane 45 MPH construction traffic-great job IL.

Second was Mitchell South Dakota. They have a Cabela's and a Ruby Tuesday. Cabela's actually had ammo in stock and not at gouger prices.

Onto Cody Wyoming. We screwed up our calculations and ended up with an extra day in there. so 2 nights in Cody? Sure. We went to the Rodeo. It was fun. unless you are a bull or bucking horse. Long leather strap wrapped around your parts? no thanks. but it was fun. The next night? The Rodeo. this night parents and in-laws met us there so we went again. My Mom the big country and horse and cowboy fan-never been to a rodeo. she loved it. So did every man loving woman. Denim, belt buckles and big hats. I guess. there were girls there too so we were pretty even there.

Something you don't have to see is the shoot out in town square. Long and drawn out.

The second morning we were without anything to do so my wife and I went into Yellowstone Park. It was an hour drive from Cody, WY and we need a pass. So, we went early. A few miles into the park we see the pile of cars on the side of the road. Now you see when there's a pile of cars on the side of the road-you stop. Why? You might get to see an animal or a tourist devoured by an animal because he got to close. Now you see Yellowstone is not a zoo and you should not try to pet the animals-because there's not fence. Get it? Pet the Grizzly and lose your arm, eye and maybe the rest of your days.

So the cars on the side of the road. Everybody is walking back to their cars like no big deal. We ask, "What did we miss?" "Nothing." "there's a moose in the meadow, close so be careful."

And there he was. A big beautiful bull. Laying in the grass. His head followed tourists but he was not stressed. His chest was rising and lowering slowly. He was aware of people but not worried. So, I kept my distance. Keep in mind this was one of my goals since the beginning of the planning of the trip. To get it done this early. I wanted to take my time and enjoy and observe. After a good half hour and several pics we moved on. Thanks big fella.

While driving into the park we were moving into the fire damage from 2003. It was showing some pine growth and wild life as well as the forest floor was greening up nicely. I though it would be farther along as far as repairing but rangers said its a process and takes a while but will come back stronger than before.

The fires from 1988 that destroyed 2/3 of the park s forest is now showing 20-30 foot pines and wildlife galore. recovering nicely. And as the sign says-recovery planted naturally. See, some pines and other trees species will release their seeds when exposed to fire-they blow around in the wind and plant themselves allowing for new growth. They say that the forest floor will green up within days of a burn. Amazing.

The last time we were here we just drove around to the little turn offs and saw wildlife from the road. If you want to see anything you have to get off your can in the early hours. Like before sunrise-and get moving. We woke early and got moving to drive the Lamar Valley. Wolf and Bear country. so we knew where they were because of research. And we knew if they were out because of people with spotting scopes. There are scores of people that dedicate their retirement or off time to observing the wolves in Yellowstone. My first experience with them was not a positive one. back in '07 they did everything they could do to make sure they were the only ones that say them. Hey, I don't want into your club I just want to see them like everybody else. This time was different. A few people gave us a little history of the packs they were observing and a guy let us look through his spotting scope. Little grey pile on the ground under the tree? Yup, that's a wolf-good thing I saw him wiggle his ears. Sorry no pics-it was a couple of miles away.

We went up the road a bit to follow up on a report that there was another wolf up on a ridge over looking the valley-hunting I call it. Well, we missed him but did see the mother grizzly and 3 cubs make way over the ridge. Sorry, no pics-they were a few miles away. But we saw them. And saw 2 of the most rarely scene animals of the animal kingdom outside of a zoo-All within 15-20 minutes apart. I'd like to go back and sit in a duck blind on a ridge and shoot with a 600mm lens and get some shots of them.

Other things we saw....Bison and Bison Jams. You know when they cross the road and you cant move because there's a 2000lb animal in front of your car? Yeah. That's the kind. It was funny because they sound like moaning satan cows. or hung over college students barfing in the morning.

I have pics of that. And theres also the Bugling Elk that was telling a foreign tourist (who in all fairness didn't know it wasn't a zoo so the elk was letting him know that he would be killed if he came closer-have you ever been close to a bull elk while he was eating?)

I really though I was going to witness this elk kick the crap out of the guy right across from him.

Bro, it's not your kids kitty cat.

Getting up before sunrise was no big deal since it was like getting up for work at home.

Drove to the Gibbon River which flows through a nice valley and made for some nice late light reflective shots. Also went back later for sunset. Love listening to the cutthroats rising up and nipping caddis flies off the surface in the AM and PM. Some of those little guys were spectacular jumpers.

sunrise with my new friend

and no sun

Again no sun but a little shutter delay to show flowing water. Also the pines on the far bank are replacing those that were destroyed in the '88 fire.

Sunset the next night-not much better

sunset a night later. Much better color. Look in the river for risers...

Saw this guy out in the Hayden Valley hunting. She would stop and stare and then leap and pounce on her food and come up chewing. Clever. Very clever.

Second moose we saw outside the park. we watched him for a good half hour

this cow was eating in the pond. She would stick her entire head under water for a minute or 2 and come up chewing. funny.

a good shot of destroyed forest over miles and the regeneration coming up from the ashes. Fire was from 2003.

flowers and grass growing next to a burned down tree

Calf bison grazing. amazing how defensive a herd of bison is. Watched them gang up on what we found out was a grizzly. the entire herd put them selves in front of the young ones inline like a wall. A guy with a spotter scope said there was a grizzly in the trees. I couldn't see it but the way the bison behaved something was watching them but didn't try anything.

Our first day we drove over fishing bridge and went to the end of the road. there were no stopping signs for six miles due too the fires. It was clear but we could smell it. So, driving along I see a bald eagle-my wife missed it. Driving along a bit more she sees another eagle flying along with us over the Yellowstone River-it dives at the water and comes up with a trout. It was a big big bird. So graceful so beautiful to see. (Unless you were that fish).

When we first got to Fishing Bridge on the second day. We noticed there were trail closure signs due to fire. I didn't think they were that close. but lo and behold.

The sign was at the road along the Yellowstone river at Fishing Bridge

the next few pics were taken along the road after you pass Fishing Bridge heading north. No stopping for 6 miles

This was the day after seeing the eagle over the river. The wind changed directions and brought the smoke southwest.

Couldn't see 50 feet once inside the smoke.

The following photo was taken across the Yellowstone River. You can make out the trees on the far side of the river

Bison moving on the near shore of the river within the smoke.

I can help but to think about the eagles that was saw the day before. I am sure they got out of that stuff. Did they have young in the nests? Hopefully old enough to fly off as well.

There was always a haze in the trees and off in the distance-the park said "most" of the haze was from the California fires. Wow! Satellite photos confirmed that. WOW.

We tried to see as much as we could-and we did. the entire key was getting up and getting on the road before sunrise. A few minutes after the color would hit the horizon then birds would start chirping-that must be natures alarm clock. Then you would see bison moving into the fields to graze and you would catch a glimpse or other animals. So much to see so much beauty. not all animals though. the geysers with the color of the sky in the back ground was always nice to see. Sunrise was the best. since temps were in the high 30's low 40's overnight the geysers were putting on a steam show. Especially along the Firehole River.

The Tetons were just as spectacular. We hiked miles and miles. saw so many great places and natural monuments. Saw more moose and a black bear the was wrecking a berry bush. We went back the next day-the bush was naked. He was 10 feet from our car eating from the bush and he cared less about us and more about the berries. I know we were violating the 100 yard rule but he was right on the road. That was not our fault. So we watched for a few minutes and took some photos and left him alone. Like I said WE left him alone. The next morning we went back to the area where we saw the moose and the black bear. There were 3 Park Rangers and 1 Park Police car the had a trail closed and they were handing 4 people little slips. To me it looked like tickets. they all were carrying 400-600mm camera lenses and looked pretty upset. We spoke with one of the rangers and we got the story. The bear we saw eating the berries (marked with 2 tags in the ears) got into a territory battle with a grizzly earlier that morning. The black bear won. But he was rattled and very nervous. So afterwards he was swimming in the pond. Maybe to let off some steam and relax? Then as others learned of his presence the more people showed up. Including the "pro" photographers. Stupidly they approached the pond and spooked the bear off into the woods. Again, Stupidly, they went after him and eventually chased him up a tree. Tourists were quick to call the park and rangers were on the scene quickly. the bear was in the tree foaming at the mouth and whining. With 4 photographers at the base of the tree snapping away. The bear was super scared. One ranger said he was shaking. I mean come on. This is not a zoo. Enjoy the wildlife from a distance and respect it or it may turn on you-who's fault? Yours. Here's a pic I got when he was next to the road eating from the bush. I had a zoom lens with crop factor so we weren't too close. the ranger directed traffic so that nobody disturbed him.

Some other pics I took....Snake River at Oxbow Bend. Really beautiful here. Great light with still water reflection. lots of calendar appearances with this scene.

Taggart Lake. Great hike with a reward of this view. I wanted to float tube fish this lake but was trumped for the Snake.

the double Rainbow of the lower falls of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Aspens

The Tetons over Antelope Flats on Gros Ventre Road

The famous cabin at sunrise on Mormon Row Road.

What? you wanted fishing pics? Oh, I couldn't put those in the beginning. Fact of the matter is that the fishing was hard. On the Snake River the water was high and fast-it was hard to find good water-plus it was hot. 87 degrees and high sun. We threw everything at the fish over a stretch of water that was some of the hardest wading I've ever done. We fished the Henry's Fork at Herriman State Park. Dipped In Millionaire's Pool. Talk about weeds. almost 90 degrees and weeds everywhere. Couldn't wade 10 feet without having to get out and clean 10 pounds of salad off my boots. I made it down to the bridge and had a hook up with a nice Cutthroat trout. Ready for this. There were no weeds under the bridge-so I stripped a few streamers through it. It came out of the shadows and slammed my Black Nose Dace that I tied.. After about 5 seconds of fight-my tippet snapped. Not the knot-right in the middle of it. Must have had a nick on it. Really mad. It was a 18-20" fish.

That was the only hook up for 2 days fishing. We did hit a little river in Idaho known as Rainy Bridge. Nice slow moving water with great risers for caddis. I was tired so I picked up my camera as my buddy fished. A moose comes out of the woods for an evening snack as he casts caddis for rising brook trout. She is on the far bank looking at him.

I have a buddy who lived in Jackson, WY back in the 90's and said not to fish the big rivers. Go to the feeders. Big rivers have too much pressure and warm water he says. Go hit Cliff Creek and Granite Creek south of town he says. So, on the last day I went there. And low and behold. Casting a hopper with dry dropper actually works. Hooked up with a couple nice cutthroats while fishing the pocket water behind the big boulders.